Thursday, 25 October 2012



All'Arco on a Saturday lunchtime. By 12.30 a long, wide queue stretches out of the door. Regulars squeeze along the side of it and inside, straight to the bar to order - remarking to others that everyone's waiting in line, but hardly anyone's inside. Only the uninitiated wait in line. We eat steaming, freshly cooked polpette, cicheti with robiola, truffle and mushroom;